Naples, Italy 1964

Funny that my first real conscious memories have to do with food and cooking. I was barely 4 years old walking hand in hand with my mother to the “mercatino”, to do the daily grocery shopping for that day’s supper. Even though the budget was tight, she always managed to put a good meal on the table.   I remember the produce vendor’s singsong calls that his were the best tomatoes and sweetest peaches and such.  The vendors were very competitive with one another as to who had the best stuff. It was almost a carnival-like atmosphere and very entertaining.  He wrapped our selections in a sheet of newspaper shaped into a cone and weighed it on a hand held scale.

Next we visited the butcher shop where I was both fascinated and repulsed by the array of dead things hanging on big hooks in the window.  My mother bought a small quantity of something (meat was very expensive) and we moved on.  Next stop was the Salumiere for a few items from the deli counter and some olives out of a big barrel.  Finally the stop I had been waiting for.  A free standing pushcart with bunches and bunches of hanging bananas and beautiful pineapples.  My mother buys me a perfect little banana, peels it half way down and handed it to me as if it were the best treat ever.  As an adult I learned that it really was a special treat as all tropical fruits were very expensive and therefore reserved for special occasions.

So there I was walking along with my beautiful mammina, who for the time being was all mine.  It was a beautiful day and all was right with the world.  She was already expecting my sister but I don’t think I understood it.  I was blissfully unaware of the little blond cherub that would soon join our family and of the huge changes that the coming year would bring.                           

Pappardelle with Mushroom sauce

I love the earthiness of this dish. It is pure comfort food. Of course you can use any pasta shape that you like but either store bought or homemade pappardelle really works well with this sauce. For the mushrooms I use a combination of Cremini, Portobello, White button and dried Shitake.  No problem If you can’t find the dried mushrooms.  Just use more of the fresh and use the bullion only for your liquid.         

 

1    Lb. Pappardelle pasta 2    Lbs. Assorted sliced or quartered mushrooms 2   medium onions, thinly sliced 6   cloves minced garlic 4  Tbs. olive oil 4 Tbs. Butter 1 Porcini Mushroom bullion cube 1 Chicken bullion cube 1 Tbs. fresh chopped sage or thyme 1 cup ½ and ½ 1 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano Salt and pepper to taste

IN A LARGE BOWL, add 2-4 ounces (if using) dried shitake mushrooms. Pour 3 cups hot water over the mushrooms and let sit till completely softened.  Meanwhile chop or slice remaining mushrooms and set aside. If using Portobello’s, scrape out and discard the dark gills first before slicing. Slice onions and chop garlic and set aside.  Strain shitakes, squeeze out excess moisture and add them to your other prepped mushrooms. Strain the reserved mushroom liquid through a fine mesh sieve or cheesecloth. Put it in a saucepan on simmering heat.  Add the two bullion cubes to the liquid stirring till dissolved.  In a large skillet add 1 TBS each of the butter and olive oil and sauté onions till softened with a tsp each of salt and pepper.  Add garlic to the onions and cook for a few minutes more.  Remove to a large bowl add 1 Tbs. each of butter and olive oil to the same skillet and sauté ½ of your mushroom mix till lightly browned. Add a pinch of salt and pepper to the mushrooms and remove to bowl with the onions. Repeat with the other half of the mushrooms and remove to the bowl with the onions.  Now add about ½ of the liquid to the skillet and bring to a simmer.  Meanwhile cook your Pappardelle in plenty of salted water.  Add ½ and ½ to the liquid and ½ of the grated cheese.  Whisk together. Sauce will thicken slightly. Return onion and mushrooms to the skillet, add remaining butter and garlic as needed. Add chopped herbs.  Drain pasta and toss with the sauce. If too dry add more of the liquid and combine. Top with remaining cheese and serve.